French architecture shelter the body as effectively as it calms and inspires the soul. It is a gentle inspiration that can be channeled in the same steady, even pace of the city. Unlike the chaos and mindless commotion typical of cities in developing Asia, Hanoi seems balanced, focused, clear. Perhaps it is because of cleaner air, or perhaps cleaner air is a result of it. Perhaps it is the mild chill that encourages one to be active to stay warm rather than oppressive heat that drives other cities to madness. Perhaps it is the satisfying pleasantness of the delicious French foods available – French bread, biscotti, chocolate and wine (and cheese for those interested). Perhaps it is the beautiful architecture and organized streets. Perhaps it is the importance placed on values like education, tradition, and respect, especially for the young and old. The art galleries, museums, theater performances, and timeless fashion might have something to do with it. An uber driver tells us it is because of midday naps and long lunch breaks, inspired by the French. Most likely it is all of these little details that come together to make Hanoi not just a city, but a society.
People and Society in Hanoi
Outdoor Temple of Letters Best not to visit on a rainy day
The people of Hanoi are some of the most pleasant, kind, and genuine to be encountered in Asia. While most Vietnamese tend to be quite polite, the people of Hanoi are also sophisticated. They may inform you about the French architect who built your hotel, the order in which your traditional Vietnamese dish would be best enjoyed, or recommend a wine that would pair well with your meal. They will typically clarify your order rather than guessing and serving you something you didn’t want (refreshing for a crowd with any dietary restrictions. They will serve wine at the proper temperature and assure that you are pleased with anything you order. In a place where nearly everyone is respectful and courteous, one’s guard releases enough to open up to a bit more love, appreciation, and kindness here. Hanoi is a place where civilization exists in a perfectly Southeast Asian context and how enriching it is to experience that.
Say:
cám o’n (come on) = thank you | chào (ciao) = hi
Perhaps the best spot in SEA to buy wine
Stay:
Stay in Old Quarter – don’t think there is anywhere else worth staying in Hanoi.
The Hanoi Green Mango Hotel ($25ish) is spectacular – French built, free tasty breakfast, spacious, cozy rooms, and truly amazing service from genuinely kind people – the best place we’ve experienced in Asia.
Shop for Western (French) Groceries:
Intimex Food Shop – great snacks like St. Michel French biscotti, huge chocolate selection, and tons of French and Chilean wine as well as any other alcohol.
Eat Vegetarian/Vegan:
Gia Ngu, Tandoor Indian, and ESPECIALLY Jalus Vegan
View from Halong Bay
See:
Definitely check out the Vietnam Fine Arts Museum and Ha Long Bay but research your tour on TripAdvisor (we didn’t and regretted it) and DON’T stay on Cat Ba Island.
Maybe see the Museum of Ethnology, but don’t prioritize it. Wouldn’t bother with the Temple of Letters.
A room in the Green Mango
There’s a free-standing bathtub!
Writing on the chaise in Green Mango Hotel
The Jalus Platter ($4) at Jalus Vegan
From the Vietnam Fine Arts Museum
“Central VN 1981” from the VMFA
“A Wharf at the Foot of Mount Bài Tho 1958” from the VMFA
Mimosas are a rare luxury in SEA, but not in Hanoi
1 comment